(The Hammer)

The official Transmission of the Klingon Imperial Weapons Guild.

9804.15____________________________________________Vol.2/No.4 Part Two

As the Guild grows, we will try to enhance camaraderie by publishing histories of our members (both Klingon and Terran). It is not necessary to develop a family history to be a Guild member, but it does help to solidify an image of you as a fellow crafts person and Klin.

The Five Blades

With tired hands K'Daq finished polishing the last of the five weapons of honor (a tajtIq) and placed it alongside the other four - an 'algnegh, a QIS, a jeqqIj and a 'aqleH. It was as if a tremendous weight was lifted from his aged shoulders. Five weapons , five warriors, five friends - each as different as the east is from the west but together they made a formidable unified force. It was this force that had sustained the ancient Klingon for so long.

Years ago K'Daq had undergone the Rite of MajQa. The vision of his father had told him that it was not his place to join the Black Fleet - that in Sto-Vo-Kor he would be known for his blades. For all eternity he would supply blades for the greatest warriors of the Empire.

It seemed rather disappointing at first. The Black Fleet was every warrior's right, but after a time K'Daq realized that his spirit lived through each blade he created. He was actually able to experience the Black Fleet from the viewpoints of thousands of warriors. So his inevitable passing on to eternity was now an event he looked forward to.

The five warriors would be guardians of his spirit until he made the final journey. after which the blades would be there to guide them and to free them to fight with the strength of a dozen warriors.

Kri'stak, mountain of legend, I will miss you.

Next month: I warned you. Unless you want to be subjected to more *hazy* memories of life on the volcano - Send in your bios !! If you've sent one in and I didn't post it, its been lost ......so send it again. I am finally settled with the new computer so losses should be a thing of the past........SHOULD be.

The jey'naS or Klingon Double Headed Battle Axe

Like its smaller brother the 'alngegh, the jey'naS is an ancient weapon - axes, in general, having given way to blades more adaptable to the developing Klingon fighting style. However many a warrior can be found who still understands and prefers the axe in combat.

The jey'naS is a more massive weapon than it's smaller brother. The double heads and longer shaft make it roughly twice as heavy as the 'alngegh. Reaction time will be slower while fighting with this weapon and for that reason the addition of the *offensive* pommel has been made to prevent any disadvantages.

Warriors who choose the axe in combat tend to be more steadfast in their demeanor. Although they don't appear to be as *graceful* as the typical sword fighter, appearances can be deceiving. Axe fighters don't hesitate to take the fight directly to their opponent - there is very little in the way of feints. Since the same muscles are developed in making blades at the forge, smiths tend to choose the axe because of it's comfortable familiarity.

mupwI' yI'uchtaH !!

jey'naS - Klingon Double Headed Battle Axe

jey'naS Dimensions - average:

Blade material -- G-2 titanium

thickness of blade -- .25 inches

length of blade -- 11 .50 inches.

width of blade -- 15.5 inches

Handle/ material -- 28 inch X1.5 inch dymondwood shaft

Pommel -- 3 inch X 5/8th inch beveled titanium disc

Total length -- 30.5 inches

weight -- 2.75 pounds

Next month : Mevak - Ceremonial Mauk To'Vor Dagger

bat'leth/SOK - Grinding to the final pattern, beveling and polishing

This month we move along to *cleaning up* your rough cut pattern, polishing the body of the weapon and placing cutting bevels.

K'Beck touched on the initial grinding to pattern lines last month but we'll expound on it a bit this month as well. No matter what method you use to cut your pattern out, you will invariably be outside of your intended pattern. Many times I draw up a pattern and when it is initially cut out I find that I'd like to alter the blades arc or deepen one of the cut-outs - either for esthetics or functional reasons. For this reason cleaning -up is a constant order of business.


The cheapest and most time intensive method would involve the old hand file system. This might sound insane, but it is a time tested method and can come in handy when you are short on cash for machines. If using this method make sure your files are sharp and that your work piece is securely fastened down to a bench surface. If the metal is even the least bit loose, you will lose some of the files cutting ability. It is also important to remember that most files cut on the push stroke. Dragging the tool back over the edge only promotes damage to the teeth. It is important to gain confidence with this technique because it will be used in many instances when power tools can't gain access to a work area.

The next option is both reasonable in cost and quite efficient - the bench mounted grinder. You can get a small bench grinder for around $50 at most large hardware chains and if you check around you can probably find one cheaper in the want ads. These use abrasives in a hard wheel. They come in standard coarse/medium/fine grits and last through quite a few blades. I use the coarse stone to clean to my pattern lines because it saves expensive belts and I can get into tighter spaces with the wheels. A standard wheel for a 6 inch grinder runs about $7.00 while a standard abrasive belt costs about $4.50. One wheel will clean up many patterns and one belt will wear out long before it cleans up one pattern. So the math leans you toward the grinding wheel. You can also buy a *chuck* for the grinder and use it to mount grinding *bits*, sandpaper drums/disks and abrasive shapes for refining your work.

The last option is the belt grinder. If your pattern is fairly close to the lines and you are anxious to get going you can grind to your lines and start beveling at the same time. This is a more advanced technique since it will make it hard to locate the blade's center line later. If your eye is trained you can keep tabs on the center line while doing this. Otherwise it procedes just like the grinding wheel

When cleaning to your pattern lines it is a good idea to run your blade perpendicular to the grinding surface so that you keep the edge square. If you hold the blade parallel to the wheel or belt or file you might not be able to see the edge alignment and in doing so grind past your pattern lines.......so keep an eye on how *square* your edges are.

Because the bat'leth and the Sword of Kahless both have cut-outs you will need to develope a technique to clean these interior areas as well. For the file users there is no difference. For those using the grinding wheel you can sometimes work it into the interior but it can be dangerous if the piece *binds*. The belt grinder is almost worthless on interior areas unless you have a very small wheel attachment and a long belt. These are found on the expensive grinding machines.

A useful tool to work interiors is a drum sander mounted in a drill. You can also put it in a drill press or use a table mounted drum sander. In each of these cases you either clamp the metal down and bring the drum to it or secure the drum and move the piece around. These give you a clean and square edge on interiors as long as the drum fits into the cut-out. You can get a variety of diameters of drums so this should cover almost every situation. You can also buy stones mounted on shafts that fit in drills and drill presses as well as *die grinders*. These act like the bench mounted grinder only slower, but they get into restricted spaces.

Once your pattern is where you want it I would suggest you polish the body of the blade before doing any bevel work. This is for two reasons.

1. It squares the edges and gives you a more accurate bevel placement.

2. It prevents grinding into your bevel area when you are doing the *bulk* work.

Once again you have a variety of options. Basically sandpaper is sandpaper whether it is on a machine or in your hand. If you are using your hand be sure to put the paper on a block to keep it square to the metal.....then just be patient and work through the various grits. Which grit you start with depends on how rough your metal's surface is to start with. If its pitted you'll need to start with a 50, 60 or 80 grit. Once you have the initial uniform surface created then its only a matter of moving up the grits to the point at which you are satisfied (or worn out). I usually polish to a 400 grit and then drop back to a 200 grit paste on a buffing wheel to remove any grinding marks.

The machines available for this operation are the various sanding machines. Palm sander, orbital sanders, belt sanders etc. The palm and random orbital sanders usually make a cleaner path without any *ditching*. The belt sander can remove material the fastest but if used improperly it will trench your metal quickly. The important things to remember about belt sanders is to keep them moving. Making even sweeps of your blade in the same directions until the entire surface is gone over - then repeat.

The table mounted belt grinder gives you the added stability of getting to move the metal on the belt but it can also leave trenches if not used properly.


We've covered the process of beveling before and you can refer back to the supplimentary article on that in the previous *mupwI'* by using this link.


I'd like to stress another aspect of the bevels at this time and that is the design and layout of the bevels themselves. Not all swords have cutting edges in the same places. If you plan on moving your hands around on the blade during use, you'd better not bevel too many surfaces. If you are happy to use the hand holds then you can sharpen almost every edge on the weapon.

Recently K'Beck was given instructions by local leaders in KAG to *dull* the edges of his weapons due to an incident at a convention. You need to make sure you are aware of any details concerning weapons at the convention you are attending before you find your blade back in your car or confiscated by a con organizer. It might be your proudest piece of work but it is a weapon and not everyone can be trusted with sharp things at some events. Because of this, many events will exclude all weapons so as not to offend anyone in particular.

At my first convention I had made meqleths for both myself and my nine year old son but Texas A&M didn't allow any type of weapon - even plastic toy guns. So all of that hard work went for naught.

In general the bat'leth and Sword of Kahless have sections of the edges used for blocking attacks and sections for making cuts. The junction of two edges is usually left thick and acts as a blade *catcher*. In many of Worf's fights he breaks the opponents weapon with this section of his blade. I'm not sure that speaks too well for his opponent's blade construction.

The Standard bat'leth and the Sword of Kahless

Patterns cleaned up/body polished/bevels placed

These are terrible pictures. The weather out here has made photography difficult. As soon as I get acceptable results I will update this section and notify you all.

What you are looking at (if you could see it) are both weapons polished and beveled.

Next month we will discuss handle options and complete the weapons.


If you'd like to get a head start on next month's work find some nice hard-wood or large slabs of animal horn (if available). You can also use a wooden spacer and wrap it with leather to give yourself a more comfortable grip while still looking like the weapons on the shows.

Bonus Weapons

To make up for the lousy photos I'm including the finished tajtIq pair from *Apocalypse Rising*. With the blued blade and black leather handles offset by the heavy titanium hardware - well.....I was a happy old Klingon. Enjoy.

These are the blades with their leather shaped prior to treatment with the lacquer.


I used black lacquer to soak the leather this time. I liked the results.

mupwI' yI'uchtaH !!

*mupwI'* Volume 2/ Number 4/ Part One